The first travel report isn’t that long ago yet, and already there’s another trip to tell you about.
Our „first-time travelers“ from last year, Alfred and Ingrid, enjoyed Andros (and of course our cats!) so much that they immediately booked another trip for this year!
This time, they weren’t traveling with Marie’s parents, but by now they no longer needed experienced travel companions.
So, on the last day of April, the two of them boarded a plane bound for Athens under sunny skies, with thankfully enough jet fuel available despite turbulent times (and hoping the same would be true for the return flight).
Although the flight was almost on time, the journey to their hotel turned into a two-hour rush-hour traffic jam because many people take the shortcut via the „back exit“ of the airport. To make matters worse, the weather was anything but pleasantly Mediterranean! Fortunately, the now familiar little lemon tart helped lift their spirits.
A Day in Attica
Since their ferry wasn’t scheduled to leave until the following day, Alfred and Ingrid spent the day exploring Attica, the region surrounding Athens. From here on, however, we’ll let Alfred, the tour guide of this two-person travel group, tell the story himself:
Today I had planned a small round trip through Attica. We started the morning with a walk to a little chapel perched on a rocky outcrop above the harbour.
A typical front garden.
Not exactly typical Greek architecture.
Back from the catch.
A wedding chapel with breathtaking views over the Aegean Sea. At least when the weather cooperates.
Unfortunately, we had temperatures of only 14°C, strong winds, and naturally we were reminded of our last trip to Andros.
But that certainly didn’t stop us. We drove south from Rafina to Cape Sounion. Of course, my planning had one small flaw: May 1st is a public holiday, so many shops and public sites are closed. On the bright side, that meant we didn’t have to climb over the ancient stones of the Temple of Poseidon together with thousands of other tourists.
Even from a distance, we were able to admire the temple at length. Just imagine what it must have looked like 2,500 years ago! Its location is truly extraordinary, perched high above the sea at the southernmost tip of the peninsula.
A chukar partridge with her chicks at the temple.
A black tomcat also crossed our path there. One eye and one of his hind legs had clearly seen better days, but apart from that he was in good condition—probably thanks to the many cat-loving visitors. He happily accepted the treats we offered him and was very friendly.
Our journey then continued to a monastery dedicated to the Holy Apostle Paul. We arrived around lunchtime and were fortunate in three different ways.
First, we were able to join four theology students, which allowed us to visit the monastery despite the midday quiet hours.
Secondly, inside the richly decorated chapel, we had the privilege of listening to the students perform Byzantine chant—an extraordinary and deeply moving performance by the four young men.
Our third stroke of luck came when we were welcomed and shown around by a German nun who has been living in the community there for more than 35 years.
All in all, it was a truly special and completely unexpected experience in the solitude of the Attic peninsula, far away from the tourist crowds.
Back at the hotel, the storm is still howling outside, and we’re looking forward to tomorrow’s ferry crossing and the days ahead on our island.
The Ferry Crossing
The view from our hotel window this morning made us a little doubtful. After a long and leisurely breakfast, we followed what has almost become a tradition and headed to Lidl. They still had a few cans of the blue Coshida variety that is so popular on Andros, and those immediately found their way into our shopping cart.
Back at the hotel, we kept checking the weather forecast. Gradually, it became clear that the storm would ease before our evening departure. We pleasantly passed the waiting time by strolling through the streets of Rafina.
At the little wedding chapel on the rocky outcrop above the harbour, a friendly furry face seemed to be waiting for us. It was certainly the perfect spot to collect plenty of cuddles from visitors to the chapel. After all, who could possibly walk past such an adorable little ball of fluff without stopping?
A few streets further on, we came across a larger group of cats. They all looked content, well fed, and free of any obvious injuries. It was clearly a well-maintained feeding station. Most of the cats there had also been neutered.
On our short walk back to the hotel, we passed no fewer than five bakeries and pastry shops—we still needed a few supplies for the ferry crossing.
It’s always impressive to watch the ferry crew successfully solve the giant puzzle of fitting trucks, trailers, cars, and, in between, even pedestrians safely onto the ship.
Editor’s note: Of course, our travelers were discreetly watched from afar both as they departed from Rafina…
…and as they arrived in Gavrio.
But now, back to Alfred’s daily reports:
After a rather rough ferry crossing, we finally arrived in Gavrio on Andros in the last light of the day.
Day 1 on the Island
Today marked the beginning of the actual island stay, and from now on we received daily updates about Alfred and Ingrid’s adventures. First, however, we were treated to the sight of the marguerite bush at their accommodation, which was already in magnificent bloom last year.
Doch nun zum Tagesbericht:
Now, on to today’s report:
Naturally, our first stop on Andros was to check on the feeding stations. The weather changed constantly—from sunshine to heavy rain showers, then hail, and back to sunshine again. Unfortunately, the sunny spells were all too brief. Strong winds and temperatures of just 13°C once again reminded us of our previous visit to Andros.
But back to the cats. No matter what the weather was doing, they were hungry. We only made a brief stop at the feeding station by the supermarket, as we already knew from Sabine and Herrmann that the tenants there were taking care of the few cats. Even so, Vina had quite an appetite for the treats we brought.
Things were much livelier at Feeding Station 1. In the morning there were around eight to ten cats present, and by the evening as many as fifteen. This feeding station is looked after by A. and a friend of hers. There was plenty of dry food available, but our blue cans disappeared like hot cakes.
An unspayed cat you’ll be hearing more about later.
MerlMerle making good use of the shelter that keeps the food dry and protected.
A quick visit to Feeding Station 2 revealed only Gin.
As soon as the weather allowed, we drove to Chora, the island’s capital, and enjoyed a stroll through its charming little streets.
At the Monument to the Unknown Sailor, the wind was so fierce that it was difficult to stay on our feet. Under those circumstances, the nearest café suddenly became a very appealing destination.
In Chora, we once again found content and relaxed cats.
The local cultural and neighbourhood association has set up a small feeding station there. The sign reads: „Food for stray cats. Stray animals need our love and care.“ It also adds: „Please note: For hygiene reasons, dry food only.“
The weather forecast, by the way, looks quite promising, so we’re still hoping for a few warmer days.
Day 2 on the Island
To make sure our travelers don’t linger too long in the mornings—and so our Andros cats don’t have to wait too long for breakfast—the cats at the holiday house arrive bright and early as a gentle reminder.
So Alfred continues:
Our second full day on Andros, not counting our arrival on Saturday evening.
The entire morning once again belonged to our cats.
Affectionate Kirian, making sure to inspect absolutely everything.
Besides the usual feeding rounds, our first task today was catching Lars-Ole. A Greek friend and volunteer had told us that he was having problems with his ears. So the handsome grey boy received a special ticket to Chora and our veterinarian, where he was treated quite quickly. After only a short wait, we were able to take him straight back to his feeding station. The sweet boy didn’t seem to hold the car ride against us at all and happily made up for his missed second breakfast.
Back at the feeding station, fortune smiled on us once again. We managed to get the black-and-white cat we had already mentioned on our first day into the carrier. It was astonishing how much noise such a tiny cat could make to express her displeasure. Before long, we found ourselves back in Chora—a route we already knew by heart. At the veterinary clinic, we were certain that life would be much better for this lovely little girl after her spay surgery. She is now called Eulalia.
In the afternoon, we finally found a little time to stretch our legs. We took a short walk to a chapel high in the mountains, our chosen destination. Magnificent views, the old dry-stone walls—so valuable from an ecological point of view—and, unfortunately, something that shouldn’t go unmentioned either: abandoned old cars scattered across the pastures accompanied us along the way.
The evening, of course, ended with our usual dinner rounds at the feeding stations. Kirian completely won us over with his irresistible charm.
Day 3 on the Island
Early this morning, luck was on our side again at Feeding Station 1. Yesterday we had noticed a large black-and-white tomcat we hadn’t seen before. He was intact but suffering from a heavy cold. We had already hoped the previous evening that we’d be able to catch him today and take him to the veterinarian. Sure enough, he was still at the feeding station this morning, eagerly waiting for his first breakfast. Well, his hunger was only half satisfied because he received a ticket to Chora instead. Much to our surprise, he went into the carrier quickly and without much fuss.
Once we arrived in Chora, we left the big black-and-white tomcat with the veterinarian and picked up little black-and-white Eulalia instead. After her spay surgery, she had stayed at the clinic overnight for observation. Back at the feeding station, Eulalia disappeared into the tall grass in the blink of an eye.
Also waiting for us there were Arabella, Merle, and Günni.
There was also an unfamiliar tomcat who had most likely already been neutered through the municipality’s neutering programme.
So what do you do with the rest of the day when, unexpectedly, you have a little free time? Our idea: drive right across the island—on four wheels rather than on foot.
So off we went to Batsi, then via Arni and Vourkoti back to Chora on the east coast. With the wonderful weather, it turned out to be a fantastic alternative to spending the day at the beach.
The scenery was spectacular, with lush green forests and a winding mountain road leading almost all the way to Andros‘ highest peak, which rises to nearly 1,000 metres. The road passes just below the summit, offering magnificent views of both the east and west coasts. The very word „idyll“ must surely have Greek origins. (Editor’s note: Indeed it does—from the Ancient Greek eidýllion, originally meaning „little picture,“ later „short poem.“)
Back in Chora, we enjoyed the sunny promenade along the beach. But we’re sure the coming days will once again revolve around exciting adventures with our cats.
Day 4 on the Island
How many days have we been here now? What day is it, anyway? One thing we know for certain: on 11 May we’ll have to catch the ferry home. We have become so mentally and physically absorbed in caring for our cats that we’ve completely lost track of time.
Unfortunately, our options have become even more limited. Our veterinarian is away on Friday, and the clinic is closed over the weekend as well.
There was one bright spot, though: our landlady had asked us to take one of her cats to be spayed. Little Riri had been watching us through the window the whole time, always hoping for a few tasty treats.
We took her, along with Marios and Sousourada—two of our friend S.’s cats who needed antibiotics—to the veterinary clinic.
While waiting, we had the opportunity to enjoy a short break on Chora’s beautiful beach. At this time of year, the sandy beach is still pleasantly quiet and offers stunning views of the town and Andros‘ famous lighthouse.
In the afternoon, S.’s two cats happily reclaimed their favourite place in the boot of our car for the journey home.
S., of course, gave us another very warm welcome and invited us for a traditional Greek coffee. Time always seems to fly by when you’re enjoying such pleasant conversation.
Koko and Marie also stopped by to say hello.
We didn’t begin our evening feeding round until it was almost dark. At Feeding Station 2, we once again met Gin. As you can see, he’s doing wonderfully well.
Feeding Station 1 was as lively as ever. M., a friend of our friend A., was also there with a generous supply of dry food and fresh water.
On the drive home, our thoughts were already on the next few days and everything we still hoped to accomplish. We’ll see how we manage it all despite the veterinary clinic being closed.
Day 5 on the Island
This morning we were delighted to meet A. again. We’d spoken on the phone yesterday and arranged for her to bring us two cats that we would then take to the veterinarian.
The first was our travel cat Leia, who was due for one final medical check-up before leaving Greece. (Editor’s note: As always, we’ll tell you all about the travel cats in detail at the end of this travel diary.)
The second cat lives in A.’s garden. He’s a tomcat named Angelos, who has a large abscess and was also scheduled to be neutered. We picked both cats up from A.’s office. She works on a project dedicated to restoring the terraces that are such an important, distinctive, and ecologically valuable feature of the Andros landscape.
After dropping the cats off at the veterinary clinic, we had a little time to enjoy a much-needed snack before heading back to the island’s capital once again that afternoon.
The travelling alone takes a considerable amount of time. Whether you’re driving from Batsi in the northwest or, as we were today, from the southeast to the veterinary clinic in Chora, you have to allow at least 45 minutes each way along the winding mountain roads. The generally poor condition of the asphalt doesn’t exactly help either.
By late afternoon we were back at A.’s office, where we returned both furry patients to her care. Leia will stay with A. until Monday, the day of our departure.
During the evening feeding round, we were already being eagerly awaited. It’s always fascinating to see how differently the cats react. Some won’t come any closer than twenty metres, while others are incredibly people-oriented and happily climb all over you. It really breaks your heart to leave such wonderful feline personalities behind.
Ingrid with the charming Kirian.
Lars-Ole next to a cat we didn’t recognise.
Arabella
The magnificent tomcat who had been neutered through the municipality’s programme.
We’ll end today’s report with two impressions from the island.
Day 6 on the Island
There are never as many cats at the feeding stations in the morning as there are in the evening. Presumably, some of them are still full and content after the previous night’s meal. It’s a pity that the veterinary clinic is closed today. Otherwise, we might have been able to catch one or two more young cats for neutering.
At least the free time allowed us to visit the Panachrantos Monastery. During our previous trip in April 2025, we had found the gates closed, but this time we were lucky. The monastery is an absolute must-see.
Its spectacular location high in the mountains with breathtaking views, the complex of buildings that resembles a medieval fortress, and the unimaginably rich interior decoration—I would immediately award it three Michelin stars in any travel guide! It was an incredibly impressive visit.
For the afternoon, we had arranged to meet our Greek friends H. and I. Since we still had some time before meeting them, we enjoyed a stroll through Batsi on the west coast. At this time of year, it’s still pleasantly quiet, although the prices are salty enough to rival hotspots such as Capri.
An Andros beauty—but not one of ours. Thankfully, she has also been neutered, as her ear tip clearly shows.
It was wonderful to see our friends and tireless animal rescuers again. We were, of course, invited to accompany them on their evening feeding round and were once again able to see for ourselves how well the cats in their care are doing. It is truly remarkable and deeply impressive what these two women achieve in the little free time they have.
Here is our collection of photos from the visit, once again featuring a few „spot-the-cat“ pictures:
Far left is Nely, Xenia in the foreground, Naira sitting behind her, Peny behind Naira, and Brianna on the far right.
Our first spot-the-cat challenge: can you find Brianna, Danae, Gataros, Naira, Neve, Oikawa and Zampino? Incidentally, we hadn’t seen Zampino since December 2022! As always, the solution can be found in the second photo.
Here is Nely in all her beauty.
In this photo, see if you can spot Brianna, Danae, Kendro and Oikawa.
Another wonderful portrait—this time of Noulis!
Can you find Boulitsa, Danae, Felicitá (whom we hadn’t seen since August 2024), Oikawa, Peny and Sergie?
Kokki
And another search picture showing the backs of Danae, Felicitá, Nely, Neve, Oikawa, Sergie and Xenia.
Red-haired Melios at the very back, with Sikari in front of him.
Melios once again, this time in the centre.
Ginny, who hadn’t appeared in front of the camera since September 2023.
The tabby on the left is our Galene, with Luzie standing behind her.
H. and I. have once again rescued a kitten, who is now safe and well cared for.
By the time darkness fell, we were back and able to serve our own cats their evening meal.
Day 7 on the Island
Saturday on Andros. The veterinary clinic is closed today as well, so our feline duties are limited to the usual feeding routine.
Whether morning or evening, our furry friends always show up dressed in casual wear, and elegant table manners are nowhere to be found. Every now and then, a neighbour gets pushed aside or hissed at to gain better access to the food. In the end, though, everyone receives a good helping.
Even little Eulalia is eating with great enthusiasm, which makes us especially happy because the veterinarian had stressed that she urgently needed to put on some weight. Her surgical wound is healing beautifully and gives us no cause for concern.
The cats in the village itself also seem to be enjoying life.
Well rested!
Thanks to our free afternoon, we were able to go on a hike today. Our cottage is ideally located high up in Piso Meria, and from there it’s „only“ 200 steps to the start of the selected Route 4/TR1.
The circular walk led us through colourful flower meadows to a monastery and then along a rocky hillside before looping back. The panoramic views over both the west and east coasts, the neighbouring island of Tinos and the Aegean Sea were simply breathtaking. The hum of insects and the bleating of sheep and goats provided the perfect soundtrack.
A sand viper.
Nine kilometres and four hours later, we finally returned to our cosy, shady cottage, where—thankfully—a cold drink was waiting for us in the refrigerator.
Day 8 on the Island
Sunday, our last full day on Andros. The traditional feeding rounds in the morning and evening are always the best opportunity to meet familiar feline faces again. It’s a wonderful feeling whenever we discover one.
At the same time, you inevitably ask yourself: what happened to the others? And that, of course, is always a sad thought. We didn’t see Miss Meier, for example. She had still been cared for by Sabine and Herrmann only a few weeks earlier. Asking both at the supermarket and our friend S. unfortunately brought no answers. Fitz, the friendly black-and-white tomcat from Feeding Station 1, and the sweet black cuddle bug from the restaurant had also disappeared. Some leave, others arrive and stay. Those are simply the two sides of this not-always-easy story.
Today we still had a little time for sightseeing, which we used for a short trip to Tis Grias To Pidima Beach near Ormos Korthiou. Last year we had visited during fierce winds and heavy rain. This time, however, we enjoyed glorious sunshine and an almost deserted beach. The impressive rock pillar rising from the sea is something of a local landmark.
The Journey Home
Our days on Andros flew by all too quickly. Today Alfred and Ingrid took the ferry back to the mainland and will fly back to Germany tomorrow, so they still had plenty to organise. From this point on, we’ll take over the reporting again.
One last look at the Mediterranean…
…and one final breakfast round at the feeding station, where Günni and Merle are already waiting.
The travellers also had a farewell gift for S. They had bought a spare cat carrier just in case but ended up not needing it, so it will now be put to good use by S. During the visit, Koko, Katsarida and Sousourada—who had recently been treated by the veterinarian—also came by to say goodbye.
Now it was finally time for Alfred and Ingrid to make their way to the ferry—not alone, but accompanied by two travel cats. One was Leia, and the other was the tomcat Arkoudos, who had also been given a ticket to Germany.
The ferry departed right on schedule, just as those back home could see.
During the two-hour crossing, the travel cats did not have to remain in the noisy and stuffy vehicle deck but were allowed to stay with Alfred and Ingrid on one of the passenger decks.
Since their flight wasn’t until the following day, Leia and Arkoudos were picked up in Rafina by our Athens friend A., where they spent the night.
Normally, A. also helps at the airport, but this time work commitments prevented her from doing so. Fortunately, a friend stood in for her—a fellow animal rescuer from A.’s neighbourhood in Athens. We have known her since last year, when she helped rescue little Labros.
After a few discussions with the airline staff at check-in—which once again taught us a few useful lessons for future journeys—the carriers received their labels and tags, passed through security screening, and Leia and Arkoudos arrived safely and on time in Düsseldorf together with Alfred and Ingrid.
A final relay journey then followed from Düsseldorf to Berlin. About halfway, Jörg met up with our association member Jenni (after first bringing Data and Scotty to their new home), and at last Leia and Arkoudos were able to stretch their legs at their respective foster homes.
Travel Cat Leia
Our long-time readers already know her by her former name, Lady. She was found in February 2022 at Feeding Station 1 with a broken leg, taken to Athens for surgery, and spayed at the same time. Afterwards, she moved in with our friend A., who named her Leia. Since then, she has been patiently waiting on our travel list—and now she has finally been given the chance of a wonderful future in a real forever home. (Adoption enquiries are, of course, very welcome!)
We told her story in this video.
Travel Cat Arkoudos
Arkoudos isn’t a stranger to us either—although only to us, as we’ve never actually introduced him here before.
He first appeared at Feeding Station 1 in February this year, terribly underweight and covered in fleas. A. took him to the veterinarian to help him recover. His rapid test thankfully came back FeLV-negative, but unfortunately he tested positive for FIV.
At the time, he was still too weak to be neutered. That procedure was therefore carried out during his medical examination before departure.
Although his blood work in February was reasonably good, he had been suffering from a cold for quite some time and, being FIV-positive, we decided to bring him to Germany. In our opinion, it was just in time—but that’s already another story.
To end this travel report, here’s one final photo from Arkoudos‘ days on Andros, showing what a magnificent tomcat he must once have been.
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